2018 

This was her second attempt at hiking up Mount Whitney, and she had had to turn back.

Three times she had represented the USA in the Olympics long distance running. And here she was, being overwhelmed by a mountain less than half the height of Mount Everest.

Suzy Favor Hamilton was disappointed with herself. All her preparation and training had come up short again. She decided to try again the next year.

Another person who was disappointed was Dave, an Orthopedic surgeon. He had trained hard, but had to forego his planned hike in 2018 due to other reasons. He decided to try again the following year.

There was a couple who had camped at Trail Camp, and hiked strong on the switchbacks, and overtook me along the way, only to turn back within the next thirty minutes. I asked them why. The man stood there, explaining to me that they had got unnerved, and did not wish to go any further, after having come all this way, and within a few miles of the summit. I had enquired if they had proper gear - micro spikes for the snowy conditions, hiking poles, water, food. They were not lacking in anything. My only disappointment much later, was not having the presence of mind to encourage them to follow me, and perhaps, the added company would take the edge off the queasy feeling.

2019

Suri had managed to secure a permit for six, for a Wednesday, September 18, 2019.

Suri, Ravi and I started to train every weekend for the big hike in September. We used to run a few miles during the week. Attend fitness bootcamps, or have a physical trainer push us a little harder than what we manage to do by ourselves. Ice, foam roll at the end of the day, when our sore muscles are screaming at us.

We hiked Clouds Rest, Yosemite, on one of the weekends.

Vinay was training on his own, hiking every weekend. Among the four of us - Suri, Ravi, Vinay and myself, Vinay had seen the highest altitude. He had been on his motorcycle, and backpacked in the Himalayas a few years ago.

Dave joined us for the Dipsea Trail, that goes from Mill Valley to Stinson beach near San Francisco. He was determined to be ready for the big hike this year. The Dipsea Trail is definitely not for the faint of heart. All the running earlier during the year helped to get over the 'cardiac hill', an un-ending stream of steps that seem to go on for ever.

Come September, we felt we were ready.

Hikers, backpackers and mountaineers climb Mount Whitney either as a day hike, a two-day trip where they camp overnight on the mountain at either Outpost Camp or the Trial Camp, and occasionally as a three-day trip, where they camp at both Outpost Camp and Trail Camp before proceeding to the summit.

Some take the technical mountaineer route, via lower and upper Boy-scout lakes, Iceberg lake and make it to the summit.

There are also those who set out on the John Muir Trail (JMT), backpack for about a month, and summit Mount Whitney.

It is difficult to get the permit for the weekend, since there are more people who apply for those days. The problem with a midweek permit is that there are more lost working days. We had a single day permit for Wednesday, September 2019. The prior two years, I had driven there 2 days prior, picked up the permit a day prior to the hike, and hiked the 3rd day. You can either drive back the same day, if you still have the energy, and be back to work on the 4th day, or rest on the third day after the long hike, and drive back the 4th day, and be back to work on the fifth.

We decided to drive 1 day prior, reach Lone Pine, CA before 4:00 PM, in time to pick up the permits, rest for a few hours and hike the next day.

Lone Pine, California is about 400 miles from the San Francisco Bay Area, and the best electric cars in this day cannot cover that distance in a single charge. Also, we were unsure of the availability of charging stations along the way, or for our return trip. Gas stations are still available along the way. Since I was the only person in our group still driving a car powered by the outdated technology of gasoline, we decided to drive there in my car. Also, I live in the south bay, and it makes sense to pick folks along the way, and head north.

I woke up by 1:00 AM, showered, had coffee, checked my day-pack, and was ready by 2:00. Vinay lives nearby. I drove to his place. He was waiting outside in the parking lot. We loaded up his gear in the trunk of the car, and headed to Fremont to pick up Ravi. We were there in San Ramon a few minutes after the designated time of 4:00 AM. Suri was waiting outside, and he (jokingly) gave us a hard time for a few minutes delay, and we had to forego the planned coffee break at his house.

We stopped along the way for coffee and restroom break. We drove through the scenic Yosemite valley and then down I-395 to the ranger station at Lone Pine, CA. We picked up the permit and the wag bags. We had lunch, and checked in to the hotel. After the long drive, Suri, Ravi and Vinay seemed to have the energy to drive up to the trailhead. I decided to stay back in the hotel and get some rest.

We had decided to start our hike at 3:00 AM the next day. We had to leave Lone Pine by 2:30 AM. Wake up between 1:00-1:30 AM. Shower. Coffee. The hotel room was booked for 2 nights. So we left the overnight stuff at the hotel, loaded our day packs into the car, and set out to the Trailhead.

We arrived at the campsite at the Trailhead shortly before 3:00 AM. There were a few spots available for parking. After using the restroom and hand washing with ice cold water, we waited at the Trailhead. . Dave, Stan and Marc would join us there in another 15-20 minutes.

Headlamps on. Hiking poles in hand. Based on the training, and Suri's prior experience, we had estimated that we would take between 12-14 hours to hike, reach summit, and be back by dusk. We were feeling pretty confident, and set out on the hike.

Suri and I alternated in the lead, trying to set the pace.

I recall hiking to Mission Peak with Ravi, and struggling to keep pace with him there, only to learn later that he had just finished his morning long run, before joining me on the hike.

Marc was keeping pace with us in the front. Marc is an ardent cyclist, routinely cycling 50+ miles over the weekend. Among the recommended training activities - running, swimming, cycling - cycling probably provides the best training for the knee, for a hike like this.

We went past the fork where the small trail takes the hikers over to the mountaineer's route. We balanced over the logs for crossing the stream. We went past the Lone Pine Lake and entered the Permit Zone. We reached the Outpost Camp, and waited for the others in the group to catch up.

Dave and Stan did not show up. After some more waiting, we got word that Dave was unwell. Altitude was getting to him. He had difficulty with balance at the log crossing. He decided to turn back and not go any further. Stan escorted him down, and after resting at the trailhead, they decided to drive back to the hotel. That was probably a good decision. Still, we felt sorry for Dave. He had trained really hard, and was looking forward to this hike.

The rest of us munched on snacks. drank some water, and continued on.

Unknown to us, somewhere up ahead, Suzy Favor too was making her way up the trail. She was accompanied by her husband Mark Hamilton and a few friends. She had taken the necessary medication to combat altitude sickness this time.

We crossed the meadows,  correctly turned left at the spot where I and many others had lost our way and retraced our paths the previous years.

Strength and endurance really starts showing here. Ravi, Marc and Suri continued on, not missing a beat, like mountain goats. I was bringing up the rear. Vinay had mild cramps in his legs. This stretch of the hike seems really long. We stopped a few times to clear the cramps, and continued up the steps towards the Trail Camp.

Suri, Marc and Ravi were waiting for us at the Trail Camp. Head-lamps were no longer needed. Sun was coming up on the horizon. We used Marc's water pump to purify and fill up our bottles from the stream.

Time check. We had covered a good distance, and had ample time to reach the summit and turn back.

Health check. Everyone was still feeling fine. No altitude sickness. No headaches.

The next stretch was the 99-switchbacks to the Trail Crest.

Suri and I had decided that if anyone else had to turn back, either one of us would turn back with them, while the rest can continue on to the summit. At 10,000 feet, we can definitely feel the Oxygen level being lower, especially coming up from sea level.

We started up the switchbacks. The sure footed mountain goats just bounded up the switchbacks. Vinay and I crossed the icy patch and cables. I was one switchback ahead of Vinay, directly above him. I waited for him to join me. I was feeling light headed, due to low Oxygen. I leaned onto the mountain for support and balance, and we continued on, with more frequent stops.

Ravi, Suri and Marc had reached the Trail Crest, without any stops, and decided to wait for us there at 13,000 feet. They waited for us there for about an hour. Since there was nowhere to get lost on the switchbacks, they decided to continue ahead and wait for us at the summit.

We passed the Trail Crest, and continued on to the junction where the JMT joins the Whitney trail. This is where we head north behind the mountains, give up some elevation and climb up again. Quite a few backpacks were left at the junction. Hikers coming up the JMT trail leave their backpacks here, and make the final push of 2 miles to the summit with a lighter load.

Closer to the summit, we encountered a patch of snow. Snow was not in the forecast. Neither had the rangers indicated that there would be any snow in this section. I did not know whether to continue on the snow, or try to go around it. There was someone behind me who gave guidance here. He asked me to just continue on my walk through the snow. I pulled out my hiking poles that I had folded and put away in my backpack, for better support, and continued on.

After what seemed like eternity, I finally joined the others in the hut at the summit.

Along with her husband and friends, Suzy Favor Hamilton had made it to the top. She was exhilarated. We introduced ourselves, while resting there. We learned that she had represented the US in the Olympics for three years. We were excited to be meeting an Olympic runner. We clicked some pictures with them. Suri jokingly asked Suzy's husband to stay out of the frame - he only wanted the picture with the celebrity.

We also learned that this was her 3rd attempt, and she was really happy and humbled to have made it this time. She was the perfect example of how someone can fall, and rise back up again.

Humorously, I said that this was my third attempt too. Suri ended up clarifying - 'third summit.' The reality is that every attempt seems like a first attempt, with no guarantee that we can make it to the top.

Ravi, Suri and Marc have been at the summit at 14,505 feet for about an hour already.

Where was Vinay? I let them know that he should be up soon, within the next 30 minutes. I offered to wait for him at the summit, while they made their way down. Vinay showed up a few minutes later. We clicked a few more pictures at the summit, and headed down.

On our way down, we came across a man resting against a boulder. We checked with him

“Are you okay?”

“Yes. Just catching my breath. How much longer to the summit?”

“About an hour. Are you hiking alone?”

“No - the rest of my group is up there already.”

“Do you have  a predetermined ‘turn around’ time?”

“Should I? What should it be?”

“Left to me, it would be 1:00 PM.”

He looked at the watch - it was already 1:00 PM. He let his friends know on the 2-way radio that he would be heading down. He was relieved and happy to make that decision. It was a good decision.

Vinay and I continued down. The trail goes around a corner, and we come across a window. It was getting to be extremely windy. I crawled across, to keep my balance. In the process, my water bottle fell off my day pack, rolled over and perched precariously at the edge. I had to set aside my hiking poles, and crawl again to retrieve the water bottle.

Vinay had taken a break to refuel. He was not visible behind the turn. I sat there, waiting for Vinay to catch up. We should have carried 2-way radios too.

Ravi and Suri had said that they would wait for us at the Trail Crest. Thinking back, that was not a good decision to wait at 13,500 feet, not knowing how long they have to wait. I should have advised them to head down the switchbacks and wait at the Trail camp instead, at 12,000 feet.

They waited at the Trail Crest almost two hours in the cold, shivering, with temperature dropping.

Finally, Vinay and I made it back to the Trail Crest. They were all relieved. From there on, the next waiting point was the Trail Camp. Ravi, Suri and Marc bounded down the 99 switchbacks  and we could see them reach the Trail camp, drop their day packs, settle down on the rocks, and wait for us.

Ravi and Suri encouraged Marc to head down with another group that was going down, while they continued to wait for us. After another excruciating hour, we caught up with them.

From that point on, we decided to stay together.

It had gotten dark by the time we had reached outpost camp and we had to put on our headlamps again.

Only while coming down, do we realize that there are un-ending switchbacks at the beginning of the Trail too, about 40 of them. With Ravi setting the pace this time, and Suri bringing up the rear, we descended at a good pace.

By the time we reached the Trailhead, it was 9:00 PM, eighteen hours after we had started, and the same time that it took me the previous two times. This was about 5 hours longer than what Ravi and Suri could have made the hike in. Considering the moving time (5 hour wait time - 1 hour at Trail Crest while going up, 1 hour at the summit, 2 hours at the Trail Crest while coming down, and 1 hour at the Trail camp), they had still managed to hike Mount Whitney in 14 hours time!

Marc, Vinay, Ravi, Suri and I were all glad that we had managed to reach the summit and be back by 9:00 PM.

There is a cafe at the Trailhead, where folks generally have burgers, fries and beer after getting back. Unfortunately, we made it past their closing time.

We drove back to Lone Pine. We were going to stay in Lone Pine for another night, and drive back the next day. We picked up beer and pizzas and headed to the hotel.

The next morning, we had breakfast and coffee at the hotel, took a few pictures of Mount Whitney from the hotel, and headed back home. After a couple of hours of driving, I asked Ravi to take over the wheel, and decided to sleep in the back seat.

We hope Dave gets back there another year. When he does, we will be there with him!

A note on Elevations [Trailhead - 8500', Lone Pine Lake - 2.4 miles / 9500', Permit Zone, Outpost - 3.5 miles / 10K', Mirror Lake - 4 miles / 10,500 ', Trail Meadows / deceptive turn, Trail Camp - 6 miles, 12000', Trail Crest - 8 miles / 13500', Summit - 10+ miles / 14505'.

Sunrise over Lone Pine

Filtering water from the stream to fill bottles, at the Trail Camp

Campers at Trail Camp

Ravi, Suri and Marc

Ravi and Suri - Mount Whitney Summit

Ravi, Suri and Marc - Mount Whitney Summit

In the hut on top

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Vinay, after Himalayas, now at the highest point in the contiguous United States!

View from the hotel